This year, at Bridal Fashion Week in New York, we saw the world’s top designers of bridal wear showcase their spring 2016 lines. As you would expect, we were awed, we were amazed and we were truly impressed with each new and inspiring line they sent down the runway. We love the bold new trends and designs that we were able to feast our eyes on. There were block colour gowns, ruffles of feathers and even high tailored suits that revived the bridal trends this week. But best of all, we were also allowed to indulge in the ever present trend that we simply can't get enough of thanks to the famous fashion designer Houghton – the bohemian bride.
The designer behind Houghton, Katharine Polk, has announced that the direct inspiration for this collection came from a bohemian-gypsy mix. The brand has already been rooted in that easy chic style they are so famously known for, with Houghton’s style icons being the bold and daring Katherine Hepburn and Bianca Jagger. And before we even saw the unveiling of the gowns, the staging of the runway certainly spoke of a carefree, relaxed, free-spirited bride. The entire runway was covered with Mongolian fur, scattered Parisian rugs, wooden Moroccan furniture and silken shawls. Before the first model stepped foot onto the runway we knew it was going to be a festival-like unveiling, and we were right.
Houghton brought their bohemian brides to life with fringed gowns, floral embroidery, and wide-angled sleeved dresses in full lace and crochet. Everything from the shape of the gown to the colouring and fabric completely embodied the spirit of freedom. Houghton incorporated our all-time familiar and favourite designs such as light and dreamy dresses along with more striking, new pieces such as layered gowns and floral prints.
The light, embroidered flowing gowns Houghton showed in this collection were nothing less than the classic image of a breezy bohemian bride. Soft, light fabric with detailed lace and wide, flowing sleeves. One such gown was the large floral embroidered lace dress with frilled cap sleeves. It framed the body perfectly, giving it both balance in its structure yet a sense of freedom in the way it draped and hung from the silhouette. Another design in this style that is known as a classic Houghton by now was the small silk corset gown with a flowing, chiffon skirt. Silk is not usually the go to fabric when you think of a bohemian wedding – we know, we automatically jump to a crochet lace dress in the sand too. But this time, Houghton took the usually structured fabric and made it into a masterpiece of movement, with a delicate corset top, a wide encasing waist and a free moving skirt with lace detail hidden behind its ruffles.
However, don’t worry, for you beach brides out there looking for your light summer fabric fix, Houghton has not left you out. Their French eyelet swing dress is a beautiful tribute to the laidback 70s, and perfect for a light and casual wedding affair. While taking a classic style staple that we now love, what with the 70s comeback we've seen of late, the swing dress was given a little bit of edge with the fabric they used. The eyelet cotton is not exactly the sheer lace you may have been dreaming of, but it adds weight and texture to the flowing casual shape of the dress, making its ruffles along the arms and waist dramatic and eye-catching. Perfect for the bride who wants a short, carefree dress but with a tad bit of glamour and drama thrown in for measure.
Along with these classic and charming light gowns, Houghton also unveiled bolder, innovative designs that, while in keeping with the bohemian bride, allowed for an edgier innovative style. One such dress was their ruffled A-line skirt with printed florals and a halter neck gown. Again, doing what they did previously by making silk into a flowing, carefree fabric, Houghton created a silken ruffled masterpiece. Its ruffling silk skirts gave it a modern edge full of attitude, while the imprinted delicate flowers on its fabric lent a girly, romantic feel.
Taking all manner of fabrics both classic and new, Houghton has reinvented what it means to be a bohemian bride. No longer confined to particular fabrics or lengths, a bride can now wear a dense fabric and a ruffled dress while still appearing carefree, blithe and beautiful.
- Roisin Curran
Image Credits: Spring 2016 collection: Houghton from George Chinsee via WWD