The most recent collection from Lebanese-born designer Zuhair Murad has brought life back into the traditionalist fabric that is the lace wedding dress. This bridal designer has been creating wedding dresses ever since his international debut back in 1999, continuously drawing from the world of fantasy for inspiration in each of his collections. While some brides may have grown tired of looking at the lavish lace gowns that have been dominating the runways since the duchess Kate brought it back into popularity, Zuhair Murad has given it new life. However, the only way to give something as classic as lace new life is to reinvent and modernise the fabric, which is exactly what he has done in his Spring/Summer 2016 collection.
A huge bridal trend that has been impossible to ignore of late is the use of sheer, transparent fabrics in wedding gowns. This luminous, lightweight material has the ability to create the illusion of skin and details of the female form in a regal, ethereal fashion. Zuhair Murad has used the properties of sheer fabric to surround his lace wedding dresses, making the overall effect one of playful romance and drama. His silhouettes are predominantly classical, those more traditional among them being the typical organza A-line gowns. However, as is becoming quickly evident, Zuhair Murad has a huge skill for intricate detailing design. Unlike most wide organza gowns that brides are accustomed to seeing, which have their main focus on the volume of the skirt and minimal detail, these are the opposite. These ball gowns, with their flowing dramatic skirts, contain just as much detail and intensity on top as they do on the bottom.
Some are fully encased in his light, delicate and dreamy lace, while others have wide tulle skirts and full illusion bodices paired with that incandescent, transparent fabric. Others have carefully structured bodices that drape off the shoulder and cinch at the waist, in heavy, controlled lace, which then transition into a lighter, more delicate skirt with trailing lace and light tulle. While Zuhair Murad may be the master of detail and lace, he certainly knows how to control and alter the density of the fabric to give his desired effect – be it light, romantic gowns or dramatic traditional dresses. Our personal favourite is the Patsy, which features a strapless, slimline skirt, but paired with a crafted overcoat in the same lace that transforms the gown into a grand, lavish organza gown. The combination of light lace with the structured coat that features a waterfall peplum at the waist, a barely-there dip off the shoulders and a floor length cascade, makes the dress full of grandeur and elegance.
However, Zuhair Murad did not strictly define himself to these whimsical and traditional A-line skirts alone. He also braved the slim-fitted silhouette, sculpting these straight-lined wedding gowns with more of his transparent, illusion lace. These dresses had a flowing transparent base, onto which he infused laser cut appliqued lace in a barque-style pattern. The combination of barely there fabric and a detailed, modern art deco decoration across the body made the dresses appear ornate and contemporary, full of vibrancy and sophistication. Another of our favourite sin this style had to be the Patricia, which successfully incorporated the absolute best design qualities of Zuhair Murad. It had a whimsical trailing fishtail skirt, with delicate pristine white buttons trailing down its back and an entire bodice of transparent, featherweight, flattering lace. It managed to appear timeless and modern simultaneously, with the fabric giving it a soft, classic feel and the silhouette design a modern edge.
One thing is for sure, his partnership of lace and transparency made for wedding dresses that were absolute showstoppers, full of classic charm yet bursting with modern stylishness. Zuhair Murad has reshaped and reignited our love of bridal lace to now mean vibrant, show stopping wedding gowns that will never go out of style.
- Roisin Curran
Image credits: Zuhair Murad Marriage Collection 2016 via Belle the Magazine